Galapagos - a paradise in the Pacific

In the footsteps of Charles Darwin
Although the Galapagos Islands were a long time on my «to do list», I have always been reluctant to visit the natural paradise Galapagos. «Too many tourists, restricted freedom of movement and so on» have deterred me. About a year ago I have, despite these limitations, made the decision to visit this animal paradise nevertheless - and did not regret it!

Although the variety of animals is not very wide, the uniqueness and especially the confidingness of the animals is very impressive. Particularly impressive in the bird life are the «blue-footed boobies» which delight not only potential mates with their blue feet and their dances but also the visitors. The Galapagos albatross breeds only on Española while frigate birds can be found on different islands. They are primarily distinguished by their red gular pouch, which they inflate during the breeding season to attract females. The large cactus finch belongs to the group of Darwin's finches on which Charles Darwins «Theory of evolution» is based.

One gets reminded to prehistoric times when observing the iguanas and the giant tortoises. The land iguanas and marine iguanas are endemic to the Galapagos Islands. While the land iguanas stand out by their intense yellow color and feed on low-growing plants and shrubs, as well as fallen fruits and cactus pads, the marine iguanas feed only on algae in the sea. Since they need to reheat quickly at the sun after their dives, they are mostly black with some colors. The giant tortoises were once «living supplies» of sailors and were therefore threatened with extinction.

 

The Galapagos sea lions are eared seals and indigenous to Galapagos. They are very tame and can usually be seen at close distance. Mostly they scoot on their bellies while on land, but they can rotate their hind flippers under the body allowing them to walk "on all fours". If two males get too close, they can very clearly manifest it with their teeth and a loud roar.

 

A unique experience is snorkelling. Besides marveling at the amazing world beneath the waves there are spectacular encounters with sea turtles, sea iguanas and sea lions. Even hammerheads and big Galapagos sharks can be observed. Unfortunately, the water is, due to the strong surf, often a bit murky.

The blue-footed boobies move sometimes a bit «foolish» on land. In the air however they are true acrobats. They plunge dive from 15 to 30 meters height, by folding their wings aerodynamically to the body like a torpedo, and hit the water surface with up to 80 km/h. They usually swallow the prey while still underwater.
 

Both, sunrises and and sunsets are dramatically beautiful. The Galapagos penguin is extremely vulnerable in its continued existence. Here he shows up on a lonely rock, amid the raging surf. The turquoise-colored sea on the beach is illuminated by a "burning sky" and lets the colors appear in finest pastel shades. But the pelican, approaching a landingplace in the last light, challenges the technical features of the camera.

 

  

Galapagos is a fascinating destination. With a Yacht and Zodiacs it is possible to reach secluded coves and through coordination of the various providers, the impact by tourist is reduced to absolutely tolerable limits. Freedom of movement is in fact limited and you have to stay on the marked paths. But due to the high confidingness of the animals, they come very close to these paths and exciting encounters are possible. A visit is highly recommended.

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Galapagos

The wild Pantanal - a nature paradise in Brazil

In search of the elusive Jaguar

The Pantanal (portuguese for swamp) is one of the largest inland wetlands of the Earth. It is located in the central south west of Brazil in the states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul. In this unique natural paradise, there are countless species of birds and mammals such as jaguar, puma and ocelot. But even anteaters, armadillos, marsh deer, numerous species of monkeys, the rare giant otter and the widespread Capybaras, the largest rodent on Earth, can be observed.

My first stop is the Fazenda Santa Thereza. The lodge lies on the Transpantaneira, a 147 km long, unpaved road that leads to the heart of the northern Pantanal to Porto Jofre.

This time of year the floods are already largely diminished and on the extensive river system birds as well as mammals and reptiles can be photographed from the boat. The Toco Toucan is searching for food in the early morning light and also the omnipresent caimans waiting for prey. The capybara carries her cub on her back. 

 

 

With up to 650 species of birds, the Pantanal is extremely rich in feathered inhabitants. The Tiger Heron remains almost immobile, while the Ringed Kingfisher quickly captures a fish. The Pygmy Kingfisher is very hard to see and even more difficult to photograph, because he is very shy. The capped heron proudly displays his plumes.

After continuing the trip on the Transpantaneira to Porto Jofre, I'm in "Jaguar Land", where my base is the "Flotel". For years the elusive jaguars were accustomed to the presence of people and motorboats. Today they can be well photographed from boats. However, they are not easy to find, as the area is huge and they often show up only for a short time on the shore. The Jaguar is similar to the African Leopard, but built bigger and much stronger.

 

In a branch of the Rio São Lourenço I find the rare giant otter. The species is endangered and there are only an estimated 5000 animals left. A giant otters can be up to 2 meters long (of which about 70 cm is the tail) and weigh up to 30kg. The animals are diurnal, but incredibly fast and playful. They are very social and live in families. They support each other in the hunt for fish. A Giant Otter can easily capture a 60 cm long catfish.

 

 

It is winter in the Pantanal and one morning there is dense fog, which only slowly dissolves in the first sunrays. An opportunity for atmospheric images! In the evening, Jabiru storks search for food in front of the setting sun.

The first part of my fantastic trip to the Pantanal is over. The second part leads me further down into the southern Pantanal, which fascinates with its beautiful landscapes and the abundance of animals. There I travel mainly because of the macaws and the anteaters - but I found much more! Thereof I will report in the next blog entry, which will be published soon.

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Brazil 2015

"Big Nine" and more in Botswana and South Africa

Incredible variety on my trip to the South of Africa

As announced in my last blog, in June I have traveled Botswana and South Africa with Greg du Toit.
 

The "Big Five" is the goal of every safari, where the Rhino unfortunately is increasingly becoming a challenge. On this trip, I am fortunate to see in addition to the Big Five even Cheetahs and African wild dogs. But that's not enough. I can photograph the rare Aardvark and even a Pangolin. The very rare Caracal I am able see for a very brief moment.

The first lodge is Mashatu, a beautiful Game Reserve in northeastern Botswana. Hides at waterholes allow spectacular shots from ground level.

The excessive light pollution in urban areas covers a multitude of stars. The following image shows the starry sky in the darkness of the African wilderness - fantastic.

A leopard in the first morning light, looking for prey. The colors of the winter forest match the pattern of the beautiful animal.

Exciting to see the capture of a Helmeted Guineafowl by a Martial eagle.The chicken tolerates the eagle in its immediate vicinity. A hopper and the eagle has the chicken. So quickly a "Guineafowl" becomes a "Guineafool".

Dramaturgy of the wilderness:
White with black dots - black with white dots
Head forward - head backward
Predator - prey

Sunset at 'Rhodes Baobab Tree". We spend the night in a Kgotla, which is transformed to a "Wilderness Camp" under the open sky. And that at temperatures near freezing point!

The next destination is the Mala Mala Lodge in the north of South Africa. The open border to the Kruger National Park allows the animals to migrate freely. The lodge is the largest private lodge in South Africa and famous for the variety of animals. On the first day I experience early morning fog. A mystical atmosphere as the Giraffe wanders trough the woodland.

 

 

On one day we can see five different Rhinos. But also a Lioness with her cubs and a pack of African wild dogs with puppies delight the photographer's heart. And so I'm already at "Big Seven".

 

The stay concludes with two Hyena cubs who have absolutely no fear of humans and can be photographed from a distance of two feet. The upcoming darkness sets a challenge - but with incredible results.

  

Half a day's journey away by plane my next target is the Tswalu-Lodge in the Kalahari Desert. A fantastic, beautiful lodge in a wonderful setting. Quite cold, at least at night.
My guide Greg, who has lived for twenty years in the bush, was able to photograph an Aardvark! The next three days I see 8 different ones and can photograph six of them! Unbelievable. And this is even surpassed by a Pangolin, that I see on the first day and photograph up close. The "Big Nine" is complete.

But the photographic target is Meerkats. These cute animals are so tame that in certain colonies they even run over photographers lying on the ground!

 

  

The trip to Simonstown near the Cape of Good Hope, to photograph White sharks is not successful. First of all the shark activities are exceptionally low, secondly the weather is difficult and thirdly the boat with the many tourists on board is not ideal. But with so much success in the first two weeks I accept that and do some work on the African penguins.

In the coming days I will fly to Brazil with the aim of Pantanal. Jaguar, Tapir, Toucan, Macaws and much more are on the wish list!

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South Africa 2015